A Travel Guide to the Catskills
Just close enough to the city, and just far enough away. Here are my picks for the day-trippers and design lovers heading for the mountains this summer.
Entirely besides the behemoth Catskill Park (which is comprised of some 700,000 acres and peppered with old houses and unassuming antique stores), there are also about a dozen towns in this little corner of New York that each hold endless promise. This is the ancestral home of the Mohicans, to the north, and the Munsee Lenape people, to the south, who are all indigenous to this land.
It’s hard to describe. A vein of creativity just runs through the Hudson River valley. Imagine that antiquities have carved out the Catskills’ largest and deepest path, like an ancient riverbed that’s been there forever, and then you have all these burgeoning off-shoots of modern art flowing in every direction.
Everything coexisting impossibly. That’s how I look at the Catskills.
You can visit a world-class sculpture park near Beacon in the same day you hike to a mountaintop waterfall (Vernooy Kill Falls in Kerhonkson) or discover the curated, drool-worthy antique stores of Hudson’s Warren Street.
Enthroned above all else, on every mountain peak and dripping down through every centimeter of this region is that distinctly ‘Upstate’ sense of raw, natural majesty. It’s a pretty exciting place, to be perfectly honest.
Prioritize nature, then indulge in all the local culture.
Hikes I would suggest if you’re up for it: Sunset Rock (a short trail and a famous view), Artist’s Rock (more panoramic views), North South Lake (easy hikes), Minnewaska State Park (some easy ones here, too), Kaaterskill Falls (see below: Tannersville), Black Dome & Blackhead Mountain, Vernooy Kill Falls (a challenge, but worth it), Newman’s Ledge (another easy one), Hunter Mountain Fire Tower (this is for the ambitious, but the payoff is reaching one of the highest summits in the Catskills), and Pratt Rock. There are trails and waterfalls everywhere you turn. Go off the beaten path and see what’s out there.
My top 10 overall picks for Catskills towns to visit (in no particular order): Callicoon, Hudson, West Kill, Kerhonkson, Beacon, New Paltz, Woodstock, Catskill, Tannersville, and Kingston.
Here’s why.
1. Callicoon
Callicoon is the gateway to the Catskills by way of Scranton. Also, coincidentally, where my dad’s headquarters were when he worked for the railroad, from the early 70s to the early 2000s. The old train station in the middle of Callicoon is where he taught me how to walk on the rail like it was a balance beam, how to use a two-way radio, and how to flatten coins under passing trains.
Today, I am pleased to report that Callicoon is having a decidedly refreshed moment. A small-but-mighty handful of businesses are reinvigorating the look and feel of Callicoon’s quaint town center on the upper reaches of the Delaware River — in the best possible way. My favorites are:
Spruce Home Goods - Just a few steps down the passageway from Black Walnut’s front doors. Try to go early in the morning, when the croissants are fresh, hot, and coming straight out of the oven. These people are the loveliest of the lovely, and you will be going back for seconds.
Lee Hartwell Antiques - Expertly curated mix of antiques and contemporary art. I met and talked to Lee on a recent sourcing trip to Callicoon, and I cannot recommend enough that you stop by his shop!
Callicoon Wine Merchant - Organic wines + craft beers; covered in Forbes. Creative small plates with local ingredients. A wine shop organized by simple attributes. Savor this one.
Black Walnut - An over-the-top, eye-popping ‘concept space’ celebration of Victorian design. Think alabaster busts, elegant earth tones, dramatic florals, and a fond embrace of trompe l'oeil wallpaper.
2. Hudson
Undeniably the heart of fine antiquing in the Catskills. Here, especially on Warren Street, you’ll find shops importing antiques directly from France, massive, artist-curated collections of homewares, and huge pieces of precious furniture. While you’re in Hudson, stop by Olana, the home of Frederic Church, the famous American artist who painted the cover image I used for this article (“A Country Home”, 1854).
Things to do in Hudson:
620 Warren Street - Antiques.
Red Chair on Warren - Antiques.
Regan & Smith - Antiques.
Wm. Farmer and Sons - Farm-to-table dinner.
Made X Hudson - Designer clothing made with all local, all sustainable materials.
MOTO Coffee Machine - A coffee shop and a bike shop (sort of). Yes, you read that correctly.
Kitty’s Market Cafe - Jazz brunch every Sunday this summer, 11-3.
3. West Kill
West Kill is a hamlet that’s part of Lexington (a town in Greene County). In a word, West Kill is emblematic of the Catskills’ Mountain Region. The Hunter-West Kill Wilderness is a wild and wonderful tract of land that includes “remote peaks and pristine waterways”. It draws people outdoors from every corner of the world and every walk of life. To find out why, you’ll just have to go.
Things to do in West Kill:
Spruceton Inn - Right next door to West Kill Brewing, this is a cool, rustic-chic “bed & bar” that’s worth stopping by for a drink, if nothing else. Check on room availability before you go!
John Robb Lean-To/Hunter Mountain - Located on the Spruceton Trail between Spruceton Road and Hunter Mountain; the lean-to is seasonal access only and it is now open!
4. Kerhonkson
I’m partial to Kerhonkson because my brother lives there and we have some really special family memories in/around the area. It’s a lowkey country setting. Close enough to Woodstock and New Paltz that day-trips are totally doable. You might never know half the places in Kerhonkson even exist, if it weren’t for a local tipping you off — that’s what makes it so attractive for families, hikers, and celebrities alike.
Things to do in Kerhonkson:
The Starlite Motel - Midcentury motel glam. Could be in a Lana Del Rey music video. Their ‘Cocktail Club’ is open Fridays from 5-10!
Minnewaska State Park - Something here for the entire family; super accessible. Before my daughter could walk, I really appreciated that she could do an entire trail loop with us, completely by stroller.
Rough Cut Brewing - A tried and true family favorite of ours; we love their shaded beer garden and outdoor stage.
Mill & Main - A day-to-night kind of establishment. Offers everything from cafe/bakery to kickstart your morning, or a bar and restaurant for your evening enjoyment.
5. Beacon
Beacon’s history is deeply intertwined with the American Revolution and with the river it exists beside, but what makes it special to me is that it was the longtime home of the iconic folk musician and activist, Pete Seeger. His song, ‘My Dirty Stream’, is a hopeful love letter to the Hudson River and a poignant plea to protect natural resources.
If you’re going to Beacon, do not skip Dia:Beacon. It’s a bright, weird, immersive, otherworldly place that has now inspired probably a million Instagram posts. Some exhibits are permanent; others are just passing through. Even if you’ve been there before, go back this summer and see what’s in season at Dia.
Things to do around Beacon:
Dia:Beacon - Modern art museum.
Breakneck Ridge - Stunning views; moderate difficulty level.
Matcha Thomas - Tea room.
6. New Paltz
New Paltz is a college town, so it kind of feels like a miniature Ithaca. In other words, it’s a boho haven enlivened by its college students and surrounded with natural wonder. If you’re there, don’t skip a quick walk or drive down Huguenot Street, a historic landmark district right in New Paltz, where you can explore a neighborhood from the 1700s and learn about the French refugees who made their homes there.
All the shops on New Paltz’s winding downtown streets are beyond adorable. The Water Street Market is a sweet little ‘shopping village’ that fosters a natural sense of community. I bought a really good hat from Indigo and Velvet and, if given the chance, I would probably go back and buy one of everything else for sale at that store. Make sure you explore Inquiring Minds Book Store and — right down the street — book a spa appointment at Floating Lotus (I recommend getting the hydrafacial from Molly).
Other things to check out in New Paltz:
Bonticou Crag - Big, craggy rock-scrambling adventure.
Grazery at Water Street Market - Fine cheeses, dried provisions, house-plants, and excellent sandwiches.
Mohonk Lake - If you can imagine a historic, Wes Anderson-style hotel perched on a giant rock face at the edge of a crystal blue lake that you can take your own rowboat out on — yeah, it’s that.
7. Woodstock
Not the site of the famous music festival in 1969 (that was actually in Bethel, New York), but they share a name and they absolutely share a vibe. Colorful public art, eclectic shops, hippie culture, and once a favorite haunt of musicians like Bob Dylan and Levon Helm.
Levon Helm Studios - Legendary concert space where listening etiquette is not just expected, it is (politely) enforced. I would love to see Grace Bowers play there on August 13. Here’s a full list of upcoming shows.
Silvia - Gorgeous restaurant.
Snake Rock Preserve - Cool spot to swim!
8. Catskill
Catskill is right across the river from Hudson, so if you’re planning a trip, I would combine the two on your itinerary. For example, you might visit the Thomas Cole house in Catskill, then take a mile-long stroll across the Rip Van Winkle Bridge to Frederic Church’s Olana, then end with a late lunch at Wm. Farmer & Sons in Hudson.
Things to do while you’re in Catskill:
Beattie-Powers Place - An 1837 Greek Revival mansion overlooking the Hudson River and Olana. The Beattie-Powers Place hosts year-round programming, including live music, art exhibitions, lush gardens, and easy walking paths.
Thomas Cole National Historic Site - Home/studio of Thomas Cole; birthplace of the Hudson River School of American landscape painting. If you’re a fan of Òra’s design aesthetic, visit this home to understand where it comes from.
Sister Salvage - Thrift and consignment store.
Frank Guido’s Port of Call - Two waterfront decks for outdoor dining, a weekly lobster bake, raw bar, and docks for boaters to pull right up for a meal!
9. Tannersville
Tannersville is also known as “The Painted Village in the Sky”. Colorful, picturesque, relaxing. I would do a long weekend here with the family. It’s basically in the heart of the mountain region: Hunter Mountain, the premier ski destination of the Catskills, is 4 miles away. The town of Tannersville is a four-season gem with a quintessential main street and a unique restaurant scene.
What to try in Tannersville:
Lucky - Asian cafe.
Deer Mountain Inn - Noteworthy lodging.
Huckleberry Point - Panoramic scenery.
Tabla - Spanish fusion food.
Mama’s Boy Burgers - Self-explanatory.
Kaaterskills Falls - Park your car in Tannersville for the day, take the Kaaterskill Trolley to the trailhead at the top of the falls, hike down to Bastion Falls, and take the trolley back to Tannersville when you’re done!
10. Kingston
Kingston is a buzzy little town with great style. I basically know two things about Kingston: I’ve seen enough to grasp that it’s painfully cool, but I’ve also seen enough to know that there’s way more I don’t even know about. Prime for exploring. Outside of town or right in the middle of the action, Kingston is also ideal for young families.
Things to check out while you’re in Kingston:
Moonrise Bagels - An aesthetically-pleasing breakfast spot (there are multiple locations, not just Kingston, so check and see if you’ll be near one of them!). They started as a pandemic-era phenomenon: the home of the stuffed bagel.
Top Taste - Award-winning Jamaican food.
Assembly - Kingston’s newest live music venue.
Camp Kingston - Bar, cafe, and social gathering space. Check their Instagram page to see what they’ll have going on during your visit.
Hotel Kinsley - Stylish 42-room hotel, cocktail bar, and restaurant.
Headstone Gallery - ‘In the Secret Distance’, a photography exhibit by Olivia Bee, is on view until August 31. She is one of my favorite photographers — stopping by to see this show is definitely worth your time.
Chleo - Wine bar.
Randoms:
Ollie’s Pizza (located in High falls; wood-fired pizza place)
Matilda at the Henson (located in Hensonville; a restaurant)
Catskill Art Space - (located in Livingston Manor; contemporary art from major artists, the current outdoor installation by Samuelle Green is super cool + has been extended by popular demand!)
Casa Susanna at Camptown Catskills (located in Leeds; a restaurant)
Storm King Art Center (located in Mountainville; a sculpture park)
Slug Wines (located in Jeffersonville; a wine bar)
Day Line Rooftop Restaurant & Bar (located in Coxsackie; a restaurant)
Catskills Vintage Art (located in North Branch; an antique store)
Old-Time Music Jam (Sundays in the town of Andes; a live music experience)
Greenville Drive-In (located in Greenville; a drive-in movie theatre)
Catskill Boat Charters (rental company located in Catskill; yachts, pontoons, kayaks, and paddle boards — oh my)
Upstate Art Weekend - Annual collective art and culture event that takes place throughout the Catskill Mountains and Hudson Valley; July 17-21, 2025
Coolest Places to Stay:
The Henson - A picture is worth 1,000 words, and I felt the need to include three pictures of the Henson in this travel guide. You get the idea.
Camptown (Leeds) - A 50-room hotel with impressive interior design, home of Cafe Susanna, right near the Rip Van Winkle Bridge.
Hotel Lilien (Tannersville)
Scribner’s Catskill Lodge (Hunter)
Winter Clove Inn (Round Top) - Winter Clove is a sprawling, old school resort. Artist’s Falls, a gorgeous waterfall with a covered bridge at the top, is just a small part of Winter Clove’s charm.
Tiny House Resort (South Cairo)
Guided Hikes:
Catskill Fungi - They’re hosting mushroom walks and group foraging events throughout the summer!
Girl Gotta Hike - “Connecting women with nature, confidence, and camaraderie.”
Rip Van Winkle Adventure Guides
Whenever enjoying the outdoors, please remember:
That’s it! Thank you so much for reading! Next Monday, I’ll be sharing an interview on hormonal health + mindful movement with Marykate Boyle.
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With love,
Eileen
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